I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I should much prefer to get an image right in camera which means that I am not spending hours with every single image. The majority of my personal images have been shot on average half an hour.
A shot shot around mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To overpower this I positioned my model in the shadows produced by the actual branches of a considerable palm tree. I set up a sizable California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sunlight reflecting soft warm light onto the front of my model.
I took a light measurement from my models face and shot at shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set to daylight.
This image had been shot in my D2H with a 24mm to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set with 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my own model to emphasize her arms and legs also therefore we had a great connection for creating excellent energy and directing.
Notice my own lens/eye level is incorporated in the middle of the girl torso, this will be significant when firing wide position and close to the subject to prevent distortion, for instance if you blast to high up your versions head is going to be big and the woman's legs may be like they are brief like a hen and visa versa therefore its crucial that you get your eye/camera lens degree at the proper just the height to avoid distortion,
I will frequently shoot from your lower angle, particularly if I am trying to emphasize the length of a designs legs with regard to hosiery images.
To keep the sun as azure as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration on my lens, considering the west of the actual midday sunlight. This is how you retain the sea and the sky blue as well as making my personal models skin/tan look nice an smooth by eliminating some of the actual specular reflections on her skin.
If I had been shooting facing a lot more to the east the sky and the ocean would have been far more burned out..
When I started shooting digital I were built with a lot of issues because I attempted to shoot digital the same manner I shot movie. Now when I am firing, I will always below expose in the meter studying, this is done for a couple of reasons, in order to saturate shade as well as to ensure I am not loosing my high lamps. Obviously my own images are going to be a little around the dark side however I can easily proper for this using a little s curve inside Photoshop to start the retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a tiny jpg, exactly why I will explain in another Tiny Gem.
I process my raw file as shot in camera raw from Bridge and open all of them in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re image info and will lead to far better quality photos).
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