By Barry Zeger
I had to be in Boston, Mass. on business through the Memorial Day weekend. Rather than stay over at a conventional hotel in a typical part of town (Financial District, Seaport District, Back Bay, South End), I wanted to do something a bit more imaginative, inventive, and fun. I looked into a variety of bed and breakfasts, but they were too quaint. âHipâ hostels were an option, but the online reviews were all horrific. A furnished corporate apartment seemed like a cool move, so I looked into the available options.
The offerings of Oakwood Furnished Quarters, Churchill Corporate Housing, and Northeast Suites were okay, but on the non descript side. Since Iâd be staying in the apartment for a span of days, I wanted something with character that was located in a happening area. I then came across the web site of the Hamilton Crossing apartments in the Downtown Crossing section of Boston. I clicked around, liked what I saw, and booked a room (details about the apartment below).
Downtown Crossing
Downtown Crossing is a small area of Boston thatâs on the rise, both literally and figuratively. Itâs located east of Boston Common and west of the Financial District. Way, way back in the day (between 1895 and 1917), Downtown Crossing was an upscale residential area as well the central focal point of department store shopping, where people from all over eastern Massachusetts would visit such retail giants as Fileneâs, Jordanâs, Kresgeâs, and R.H. Whiteâs. With suburbanization and competition from big box stores, retail commerce in the area decreased dramatically. Buildings went vacant, rents plummeted, red light businesses moved in, and by the 1960s, Downtown Crossing had devolved into the notorious âCombat Zoneâ.
But over the past thirty years, mammoth investment has been made in Downtown Crossing, and thrilling stuff is going on. Major retailers are coming back. Luxury apartments and condos are being built. Upscale eateries are opening up. Itâs where the stunning Paramount Theater and The Boston Opera House have relocated to. Shoppers and visitors fill the streets (many of which are closed to automobile traffic) and thereâs bigtime energy and activity throughout the daytime hours and into the evening. It seemed like quite the scene, and I was eager to check it out.
The Ride to Boston
Since I was planning to stay in an interesting Boston locale and reside at a novel lodging alternative, I decided that my selection of transportation to and from the city should also be out of the ordinary. While searching for an option to the train and busy discount bus services, I stumbled upon LimoLiner, and it was an excellent solution.
LimoLiner is a luxury service with several daily departures between NYC to Boston. The LimoLiner bus has only 28 seats, and theyâre all plush, first-class airline style, and extremely cozy. LimoLiner offers free Wi-Fi, free beverages, a free sandwich and snacks, power outlets, satellite radio choices, and free earbuds for every passenger. Thereâs also clear cell phone reception with no dead spots, news on Direct TV, and a DVD movie feature. The bathroom is clean, the service is attentive, and the vehicle is in great shape. Best of all, the journey took a little over 4 hours, which was around how long the train would have taken - but the roundtrip cost of the LimoLiner is a fraction of the one-way train cost, with a lot less hassle. LimoLiner is the most convenient and smartest way to travel between midtown Manhattan and Boston, and I kind of hope it doesnât get too popular - otherwise, itâll be really difficult to grab a seat the next time I need to make the trip.
Hamilton Crossing
Planning the details of my visit to Hamilton Crossing was very easy: my queries were answered quickly by the folks at Compass Furnished Apartments (they own Hamilton Crossing) and my special requests were accommodated without a hitch. I was confident that the companyâs meticulous attention to customer service would result in a terrific stay for me at their building.
The apartment building is located on Winter Street near the center of the bustle of Downtown Crossing. Itâs right next door to a Starbucks, directly across the street from a well-stocked CVS, and a one-minute walk from the MBTA subway. The building is secure, modern, and pristine, and my spacious, energy-efficient furnished apartmentâs numerous impressive features included:
- An office space with high-speed Internet, desk, chair, lamp, ethernet cord, surge protector, free WiFi, and free unlimited local/long distance phone service
- 32" Vizio LCD HD televisions w/ HD cable
- Fully-equipped kitchen, including glassware, cookware, dishes, utensils, appliances, supplies, and an assortment of Jim's Organic Coffee and Bigelow Organic Tea
- Central air conditioning and heat
- 24-hour access to a washer and dryer (available on each floor)
- Bamboo hardwood floors & floor-to-ceiling windows with views
- Gorgeous and comfortable living room and bedroom
- Sleek & sizable bathroom
- Housekeeping
The apartment couldnât have been any hipper, and living there - albeit briefly - made me feel more like a resident than a visitor. Thereâs also no way that I could have experienced the same sensation of being in the center of the vigorous Downtown Crossing action if I had chosen to stay in a hotel. Hamilton Crossing was the perfect headquarters for my Beantown excursion.
Stuff to Do, Places to Eat, Etc.
Boston BID: Boston BID (Business Improvement District) is the ideal resource for learning what to do, where to go, and whatâs happening in Downtown Crossing. Their helpful âambassadorsâ are available via phone and they also walk around the neighborhood, providing tips and ideas on how to get the most out of your downtown Boston journey. BIDâs colorful web site offers helpful facts, recommendations, and inside info. I was fortunate enough to connect with Marsha, a superb ambassador who guided me to all of the destinations that I eventually visited during my trip. If youâre travelling around by foot (which I recommend), BIDâs maps of downtown Boston are all over the place, and theyâve very easy to figure out and navigate.
South Street Diner (seven minute walk from Hamilton Crossing): Built in 1947, South Street Diner is âthe place to grab something to eat, hang out with friends, celebrity watch, and keep the party going.â Itâs Bostonâs only twenty four hour restaurant and attracts hipsters, workers (blue and white collar), and students from the area.
On a Saturday morning, I saw a counter full of sweaty CrossFit dudes and helmeted construction workers, tables of webbys and disheveled young moms n' dads with their children, and booths filled with families of graduates and chatty tourists - all absorbing the genuine atmosphere and digging into their chow. Three cooks (flat top, grill, fry station) worked in rhythmic, non-stop motion, and meals were prepared and delivered fast.
I sampled the Diner Special (three eggs, two pancakes or French toast, hash browns, and toast, with choice of bacon, corn beef hash, ham, or sausage) and the Chocolate Fantasy French Toast (double-thick slices of bread stuffed with chocolate chips, dipped in egg, and fried on the flat top). The steaming mini-mountains of food could have fed 3 people, and the Chocolate Fantasy French toast was messy, creative, and insanely indulgent. If you pull into Boston after-hours and are hungry for a a solid meal, South Street Diner is most definitely the spot. The crowd will be entertaining, the price will be affordable, and the food will be fantastic.
Boston Sports Club (four minute walk): Boston Sports Club is 30,000 square feet of fitness awesomeness. Check out the statistics:
- Ten different classes per day (Power Pilates, cycling, outdoor workouts, strength, ABS, kick boxing, yoga, UXF circuit training, and more)
- 3 fitness and exercise studios
- 125 bicycles and cardio machines
- Extensive free weights and strength machines
- Individualized personal training, small group training, and sports massage
BSC is big, bright, and immaculate. The staff is friendly and helpful. The Clubâs facilities smack the crap out of the miniscule sweat closets - I mean, fitness centers - of most hotels, even top-tier ones. On any given day, there are deals, discounts, and specials that are affordable and attractive (as well as contests and games with fitness-related prizes). For an efficient and wide range of challenging workout alternatives thatâs close to Hamilton Crossing, BSC is your #1 choice.
Boston Common Coffee (three minute walk): If you must have a fix of corporate coffee, Starbucks and Dunkinâ Donuts are everywhere. No really, theyâre everywhere. Ev-ree-where. But for a truly artisan and authentically local coffee experience, you must try Boston Common Coffee.
BCC roasts their own coffee locally, their pastries are created in small batches and delivered to their stores across Boston every day, and their cafe menu items are prepared - fresh and from scratch - in-store. To enjoy a quality, hand-crafted cup o' Joe, BCC is an ideal place to eat, sip, and hang.
The Merchant Kitchen & Drinks (six minute walk): When I asked Marsha from Boston Improvement District for a recommendation of a great restaurant in Downtown Crossing, she said âyou MUST go to The Merchant! Itâs new and itâs so hot right now!â
The Merchant is housed in the former London Harness Company, which opened its doors in 1776 as a saddlemaker (Benjamin Franklin was a client), and is believed to be the oldest continually operating retail store in the United States (itâs now located in Wellesley). The Merchant took over the space and opened in early 2014. The ownersâ ambitious vision was to offer high quality food and beverages with an emphasis on warmth, approachability, and integrity. The space is massive and long, with nosebleed high ceilings and a wide open interior. The original columns and deep brown wooden floors remain, with many charming architectural flourishes and a dignified, upscale ambiance. But while the surroundings may seem stately, the atmosphere is anything but. Itâs loose, friendly, and down-to-earth.
From speaking with Josh (the manager), Shane (a co-owner), and Nick (my most righteous server, who steered me to some amazing selections), I learned that The Merchant seeks a very high standard of quality for each component of their meals. For instance, all produce is purchased from local farmers when available. Fish and seafood are caught wild and purchased that day (aka âday boatâ). Their meats are all-natural and hormone free, and their bacon and smoked meats are cured on premises. Their Sunday brunch bagels are baked fresh and in-house. (BTW, their beer selection - for which theyâre gaining a loyal following and respected reputation - is also quite impressive: thirty-six are on tap, and twenty-eight more are available in bottles and cans.)
My meal consisted of:
- Mixed salad with fried onions
- A South Bay oyster and a Powder Point oyster
- Pan-seared day boat scallops with grapefruit and spinach
- Almond brown butter cake with mescat sorbet
- A glass of Gazzera pinot grigio
- A Southern Cooler cocktail, which was an artful blend of crushed watermelon, brandy, fresh peaches, Dolin Blanc vermouth, lime juice, and orange bitters
Each dish was beautifully plated and served, and the taste of everything was superb and memorable. It was one of the tastiest meals Iâve ever had the privilege to experience. A supper (or brunch or lunch or drinks) at The Merchant is highly recommended, whether youâre staying in Downtown Crossing or elsewhere in the Boston area.
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There are endless places to see, delicacies to taste, and discoveries to make in Downtown Crossing and the nearby area. Itâs a lively neighborhood for extended stay visitors (business or pleasure), and Compass Furnished Apartmentsâ Hamilton Crossing is a sleek, fashionable, and relaxing home base for your Boston expedition.
About the Author:
Barry Zeger is a travel writer who visited Boston's Downtown Crossing and was a guest at Compass Furnished Apartment's
Hamilton Crossing property.